Earrings - Beaded Drop Earrings

1. select Headpins which are approximately 6-8mm longer than the finished earring you would like to make.

2. thread the beads onto the Headpins to your own design

3. if necessary, cut down the Headpins if they are too long (using Side Cutters)

4. turn a neat loop in the remaining wire above the last bead (using Round Nose Pliers)

5. use this loop to attach the finished earrings to the Earwire of your choice; you can also use Earclips or Earscrews for non-pierced ears if you prefer.

Handy Hints

1. to get started you can use Eyebrow Tweezers instead of Round Nose Pliers to turn the loop in the top of the Headpins, but bear in mind that if you plan to sell your creations or give them as presents, you may prefer the professional finish and even, rounded loop that Round Nose Pliers will give.

2. similarly, you can use nail clippers or electrical cutters to snip down the Headpins (but see note 1. above regarding professional finish etc)

3. you may prefer to use the maximum length Headpins (50mm) for all your Earrings to give the option of making them longer

4. if the first bead passes straight over the head of the Headpin, use a smaller bead or Beadcup threaded onto the Headpin first to hold the next bead in place.

5. for multiple drop earrings, just use more than one Headpin and hang all the Headpins onto a Jumpring before attaching the Jumpring to the Earwire.

6. for multiple drop earrings, try making the individual Headpins into different length drops by using different designs or amounts of beads on each., for added interest.

7. to hang a shape etc at the bottom of the Earring, use an Eyepin instead of a Headpin and hang the drop in the loop at the bottom of the Eyepin before threading your beads onto the Eyepin above. Cut down the wire and finish as with Headpins.

8. for sensitive ears, try Sterling Silver, Surgical Steel or 9ct Gold Earwires; the rest of the earring does not need to be made up in precious metal, so long as the Earwire which passes through the earlobe is.

Necklaces

1. using Tigertail - Tigertail is nylon-coated steel wire and cannot be knotted to finish; you do not need a needle to thread your beads onto Tigertail. We recommend using French Crimps to secure the end of your necklace. Thread a French Crimp onto the Tigertail at each end of your necklace, after the last bead. Thread the Tigertail through the loop in your Clasp or Jumpring and then back through the French Crimp, making sure that any slack is taken up; you can thread the Tigertail back through the last few beads to neatly 'lose' the end of the Tigertail so it is hidden beneath a bead.. Crush the French Crimp tightly onto the Tigertail (using Snipe Nose or Flat Nose Pliers) to hold the Clasp and beads in place. You can also use French Crimps on either side of groups or clusters of beads to hold them apart on the necklace if required (like a 'floater' necklace). If required, French Crimps can be hidden inside Calotte Crimps (which are like a hinged bead with a loop) for cosmetic purposes; again you can use Snipe Nose or Flat Nose Pliers to open and close these.

2. using Perlon Gut - Perlon Gut is almost transparent but very strong and can be knotted to finish. You can use French Crimps crushed into place, using Snipe Nose or Flat Nose Pliers, to hold beads apart in groups or clusters (to make 'floater' necklaces), and use Calotte Crimps (which are like a hinged bead with a loop) for cosmetic purposes to hide your finishing knots; you can use Snipe Nose or Flat Nose Pliers to open and close these. When making 'floater' necklaces, some designers prefer to glue the beads into place rather than use French Crimps to separate them.

3. using Bead Thread - You will need either a Beading or Threading Needle, or try dipping the end of the thread into glue or nail varnish to harden it so it can be pushed through the beads without fraying. These softer thread are knotted to finish and the knot can be hidden in a Calotte Crimp. If you are using Griffin Bead Thread, this is supplied wound on a card with a needle already attached to the end; Griffin Bead Thread is especially good to use when knotting between individual beads.

4. using Stretch Magic - It is not necessary to use a Clasp when threading onto Stretch Magic as the give in Stretch Magic is generally sufficient to go over the wrist or ankle. Make sure that the Stretch Magic is well-knotted and use a drop of Super Glue (or even clear nail varnish!) to secure the knot. You can thread the Stretch Magic back through the last few beads you wish.

Chokers

1. using Thong or Cord of 1mm diameter or less -

We recommend you use Folding Crimps to secure the ends of the thong or cord. After threading whichever beads or pendants on to your cord, simply lay it flat in the Folding Crimp and fold the two upright sections flat over the cord, gripping it firmly; the best pliers for this are Snipe Nose or Flat Nose. You can always add a drop of Super Glue to be extra certain. The loops in the Folding Crimps are then used to attach the choker to your choice of Clasp; you may need a Jumpring depending on which clasp you select.

2. using Thong, Cord or Lace over 1mm diameter -

We recommend you use Spring Ends to secure the ends of the thong or cord. After threading whichever beads or pendants on to your cord, simply put the cord into the Spring End (as far as it will neatly go) and crush the Spring Ends flat onto the cord, gripping it firmly; the best pliers for this are Snipe Nose or Flat Nose.. You can always add a drop of Super Glue to be extra certain. The loops in the Spring Ends are then used to attach the choker to your choice of Clasp; you may possibly need a Jumpring depending on which clasp you select.
 

Good Luck, and Have Fun!!